Height: 27,765 feet (8,463
meters) Location: Makalu-Barun, Nepal/Tibet, Asia Lat/Lon: 27.8899°N, 87.0884°E When To Climb :April and May are pre monsoon
season.
Late September and October are post monsoon season.
Makalu, the world's fifth highest peak in the world
rising to 27,765 feet (8,463 meters). This beautiful and
impressive massive is situated just 14 miles east of
Everest in the Khumbu region. Its size alone is
impressive, but its perfect pyramid structure with four
sharp ridges makes this mountain all the more
spectacular. Makalu is actually a double peak. The
subsidary peak rising just north of the main summit
connected by a saddle is called Chomolonzo (25,650 ft.)
It is interesting to note that the summit ridge is the
demarcation point indicating the border between Nepal on
the Southern side and Tibet to the North.
The name of the mountain was probably taken from the
Sanskrit word Maha-Kala, which means Big Black and is a
by-name of Shiva - one of the most important gods of
Hinduism. Shiva is sometimes an evil, cruel destroyer
but at other times he tends to be gentle and
kind-hearted. The mountain has another name in the local
dialect - Kumba karna, which means The Giant.
Makalu has proved to be a challenging climb, as only
five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. To
date, there have been a total of 206 successful ascents
of Makalu and a total of 22 fatalities. There have been
no known winter ascents of this peak.
Prior to its first ascent in 1955, it was admired and
studied by several Everest expeditions, but like a lot
of other giants in the Khumbu region, it was not
attempted until the summit of Everest was first ascended
in 1954.
First and Notable Ascents/Routes
Currently Completed Routes
North West Ridge / North Col. South East Ridge South
Face South West Face West Pillar Route West Ridge West
Face**
** The West Face has proved to be the most difficult.
After 7 failed attempts on this route, it was finally
completed on May 21, 1997 by a Russian team.
Day 01 :
Arrive Kathmandu & transfer to hotel Day 02-03 : Briefing in Tourism Ministry &
prepare for expedition Day 04 : Fly Biratnagar & drive to Hile Day 05 : Hill - Hillepani Day 06 : Hillepani - Tumlingtar Day 07 : Tumlingtar - Kuwapani Day 08 : Kuwapani - Chichila Day 09 : Chichila - Num Day 10 : Num- Seduwa Day 11 : Seduwa - Tashigaun Day 12 : Tashigaun – Khongma La (Danda) Day 13 : Khongmadanda - Mumfuk Day 14 : Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak Day 15 : Yangle Khark -Merak Day 16 : Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for
acclimatize Day 17 : Sersung - Makalu BC Day 18-42 : Climbing Period for Makalu 1(8463m.) Day 43 : Makalu BC – Mumbuck Day 44 : Mumbuck – Khongma La (Danda) Day 45 : Khongma La – Seduwa Day 46 : Seduwa – Chichila Day 47 : Chichila – Tumlingtar Day 48 : Tumlingtar – Kathmandu Day 49 : Kathmandu Day 50 : Final Departures
_____________________________________________________________________
Itinerary B
Day 01 :
Arrive Kathmandu & transfer to hotel Day 02-03 : Briefing in Tourism Ministry &
prepare for expedition Day 04 : Fly to Tumlingtar Day 05 : Tumlingtar - Kuwapani Day 06 : Kuwapani - Chichila Day 07 : Chichila - Num Day 08 : Num- Seduwa Day 09 : Seduwa - Tashigaun Day 10 : Tashigaun - Khongmadanda Day 11 : Khongmadanda - Mumfuk Day 12 : Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak Day 13 : Yangle Khark -Merak Day 14 : Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for
acclimatize Day 15 : Sersung - Makalu BC Day 16-41 : Climbing Period of Makalu 1 8463m. Day 42 : Makalu BC – Mumbuck Day 43 : Mumbuck – Khongma La (Danda) Day 44 : Khongma La – Seduwa Day 45 : Seduwa – Chichila Day 46 : Chichila – Tumlingtar Day 47 : Tumlingtar – Kathmandu Day 48-49 : Kathmandu Day 50 : final Departure
_____________________________________________________________________
Equipments checklists -
climbing trips
In addition to the above list of suggested
trekking equipment, you should take along with
various items of mountaineering tools. For any
trip which has crossed by steep, snow-covered
ground, or which has included section of glacier
travel, it might be necessary for the group
roping up as a safety precaution. To facilitate
this process of roping up, you will need to
maintain a minimum requirement, a climbing
harness, a climbing sling and two locking
carabineers. Plastic mountaineering boots, a
mountaineering ice axe and a pair of crampons
with front points are the other items of
equipment, which are required for our trekking
peak trips. (Please note: Our recommendation
that you take no more than 33 pounds of trekking
equipment DOES NOT include your plastic boots,
ice axe, crampons or harness/carabineers. During
the trek, climbing hardware will be carried
separately from your personal trek bag in-group
bags until needed).
An explanation of the equipment that you will
need
Day packs for climbing trips
3000-4000 cubic inches. For climbing trips, you
will be required to carry more warm clothing
during the climbs and also your personal
climbing gear. For this reason, you will need a
slightly bigger daypack than for a trekking-only
trip. If you have any questions about gear,
please do not hesitate to call our office for
advice.
Equipment Rental
In order to minimize your expense outlay for
trekking and climbing equipment you may never
use again, we offer a wide range of equipment
available for rent for the duration of your
trip. All rental equipment can be picked up from
your trip leader upon arrival for your trip
